In conversation with Michelle Salins
Bengaluru-based fashion designer Michelle Salins looks to merge the old world sophistication and haute couture techniques in her own contemporary style. Born in India and having spent her life in New York, Michelle weaves together the rich Eastern culture and the panache of the West into her designs.
You were doing pretty well in interior designing, what led you to lean towards the fashion industry?
I was doing very well in interior designing, but, somewhere within I had this passion for fashion. While practicing interior designing in New York, I came across a lady who was a wedding designer and wanted to get her bridal salon done. I designed her space, which in addition to being a bridal salon offered a renting space for small weddings. After designing her salon, I asked her if I could come down on weekends and help her out. This was the beginning for me. Gradually I realised that I was working with her more frequently than my then -established career.
Later on I came back and went to Kanchipuram to understand the fabrics, materials, etc. I realised since I didn’t have any formal training in fashion designing, I needed to understand more about the gamut of fashion, before getting into it. Although I believe studying in an institute is important, however the kind of knowledge you gain through practical training is more amazing.
You have clients from both India and the United States. What is the difference between the two markets?
There’s a vast difference. In India we are slowly getting into contemporary dressing. However, it’s still a very small number of people. This niche crowd prefers contemporary embellishments. India has a rich culture, which eventually makes us who we are. We are born with a taste for a little bit of bling and colour. I am sure it won’t change because it describes us.
In the West, I do more of constructive dresses, which are straight lined and have lesser yet contemporary embellishments. Fit and flare, which is a really big thing there, is preferred for hi-end tea parties, brunches and is catching up here too. Fit and flare dresses have become my signature style too.
The kind of fabrics we use there also differs. We use a lot of hi-end polyesters, which is as good and expensive as silk. The Americans accept a lot of grey and black, and we also do blue and pink which are the next best selling colours there. As for India, we have every colour possible – orange, red, yellow, you name it. Black as a colour has global acceptance. Usually, people wear black when they feel they want to look thinner. For us designers, it is to be able to create an outfit that goes well with your silhouette and makes you feel good. I always tell my clients – the more curves the better!
What is the USP of your designs?
I make my women feel very feminine and confident in whatever they wear. In case of a specialised outfit, I try to understand the character of the client and occasion. Time and quality are my USPs – I deliver on time and the quality and finish of the final product is something very much appreciated by my clients. Some of them tell me that my designs can be literally worn inside out!
I also give my clients a complete look or style tips from hair, make-up, accessories, footwear, etc.
For any designer, the signature style must be inherent. My clothes are an expression of
the kind of woman I am and the women I would like to dress – confident yet subtle, aware of her sensuality and individuality and yet, traditional at heart.
How do you get inspired while designing?
I usually sit to design at night, or someplace near a beach or a pool. I listen to music. I enjoy my designing time with some soft rock or retro pop.
What is your vision for your label?
My label was formally started in the year 2009. I am a person who treads extremely carefully – I am in no hurry to go anywhere. Yes, I do have a vision for my label, and we have just begun. Recently we have launched a studio in Bengaluru and we sell through a store named Creo in Mumbai. We are in talks with stores in Chennai and Delhi
as well.
In addition, we also sell through Snapdeal and Amazon. Internationally, we are currently selling in the UK via an online store. We have initiated talks with another store with a retail and online presence. I will also have my first runway show in London in the second week of May.
In the future, we plan to establish our presence in Kerala and Hyderabad. I would also look to retail through multi-designer stores. We have got some exciting opportunities in the European market so I would like to expand there too.
How is fashion in South India different from fashion in other parts of the country?
Very different, indeed! South India is more conservative and yet more receptive to try out new things. In North India, they are exposed to a lot more materials and designers – there’s a lot more availability up there. Well, it is actually more about the cultural difference that reflects in the fashion of the respective regions. Over the last few years, people in the South are also opening up. They want to spend on clothing and not just on jewellery and property.
What do you think about the Indian fashion industry?
I think we are doing a fabulous job. The best thing is even if we want to copy, or rather ‘Ape the West’, we don’t copy. We pick it up and then develop it, we try to take it one step ahead and improvise it.
Which Bollywood star do you think would do justice to your designs?
Kangana Ranaut and Priyanka Chopra. In fact, Priyanka has bought an outfit from us. Several other celebs like Malaika Khan Arora, Vani Kapoor and Rashee Khanna have worn our outfits.
Tell us about your summer collection.
The silhouettes of the summer collection are very easy. This year, we have croc pants, crop tops, trapeze dresses and my signature style fit and flair dresses. In terms of fabrics, we have used very light mulmul, crepes, silk crepes and hi-end polyester. We have revisited the ‘Lego man’ in our garments and have also ‘legolised’ the Kathakali head.
Who are your fashion idols?
I am inspired by the 60’s and 70’s. I would say, Audrey Hepburn is somebody I would look up to. Her styling and dressing, everything was enigmatic. I feel she wore even a simple sleeveless outfit very differently. On the other side, I also admire Madonna, who from a wannabe girl has transformed to a woman of substance. I look up to her for her journey – from what she was and what she has transformed herself into. That is something inspiring.
I even look up to the elegance and simplicity radiated by my mother. My father was an industrialist and I have inherited his energy and vision for life. He is my role model. My men’s range – Randolph Salins – is named after him.
What is your personal style?
During the day, I prefer casuals and denims. For the evenings, I choose something feminine and elegant.
What is your advice for budding fashion designers?
If you are doing it as something to pass time don’t even think about it. Don’t waste your parents’ money in this. Get into it this world only if you are passionate about it. For the serious and passionate bunch, I would suggest attention to detail is very important.
ABOUT THE DESIGNER
Michelle Salins was born in Hyderabad, her involvement in fashion began at a very early stage in her life. After graduating and doing her design course in Mumbai, she received the “Best Designer Of The Year” Award in her final year. She subsequently started her own design firm “Salin Designs” in 2007. Regarding the inspiration for her first collection she said “The Butterfly – My dad often referred to me as that.”
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